When: August 20, 2016, 2:30 PM
Verdict? Not recommended
The Cozy Cone Motel is one of my favorite California Adventure eateries. Not because they serve amazing food (it’s actually hit or miss), but because I find their entire aesthetic to be charming and fun. The Cones are five different, distinct restaurants, each with their own specialty. They’re whimsical. Well-themed. And it’s always great to get in line to try something new.
Today, we decided to try a classic theme park dish: a churro. Cozy Cone #1 sells them. (And they come with dipping sauce.)
For many people, a churro is the Ultimate Theme Park Food Item – more so than hotdogs, hamburgers, chicken nuggets or ice cream cones. It makes some sense: it’s rare to find churros outside of a theme park. (Also, nothing says, “I’m on vacation!” quite like a churro selfie on Instagram.)
A good churro is simplicity itself: take a long, skinny cylinder of deep-fried dough, roll in sugar and cinnamon, wrap it in paper, and hand it over. The best churros are served hot, and have a slight sponginess to them. Bad churros are stale and cold. We hoped that by going to the Cone, we would get something fresh and tasty.
We are handed the churro and a small plastic container with the dipping sauce. We find a table under some shade, and go to work.
First: the churro is warm, not hot. It feels like something that’s been under heat lamps. The dipping sauce, by contrast, is quite warm. We set it down and pop the top off the container to let it cool a bit.
Second: the churro is dry. It’s loaded with sugar and cinnamon, but actually eating the silly thing takes work. It’s so dry, in fact, that I wind up scraping the roof of my mouth as I take my first couple bites. Ugh.
Third: the churro is flavorless. Yes, cinnamon and sugar. But that’s all we’re tasting. The deep-fried bread is totally inert.
Finally: the dipping sauce. It’s caramel. And not a good accompaniment. The caramel flavor is super-fake, and incredibly sweet. It doesn’t enhance the churro flavor as much as take it over. We hoped the sauce might moisten the churro; rather, it simply mummifies it.
Good churros are delightful, wonderful a treat. This is not that. Skip it.